城市

出租车司机的生存智慧

Updated: 5:15 p.m. Sun January 19, 2025

colorhub.me_photos_xVPK8
⇪题图·from colorhub.me

傍晚从外地出差返沪,虹桥高铁站打车回家。

司机是个四十多岁黝黑邋遢的中年男人,车门打开,一股浓烈的烟味扑鼻而来,看来是个老烟枪。车子开出地库,一股寒风钻入,请他把车窗玻璃关上。他说我车子烟味大,关窗你不介意吧。我说我更愿意暖和点,说罢戴上耳机听音乐。

行程过半,见他跟我挥手示意,我摘了耳机。他说咱们聊会天吧,开了一天车了,有点累,有点无聊。我说当然可以。

他问我是干啥的?我说在设计院工作。他问哪里的设计院啊,我说在浦东。他说浦东哪里。我说世博园。他说知道的,是不是以前在浦东南路搬到现在这个地方的?我说你可以啊,这你都知道。他说我们开出租的,过程中会积累经验,什么时间段,哪里有可能拉到活。所以知道你们设计院经常加班到晚上十点多钟,不少人会打车回家。你们这个职业也累啊,也是经常加班。我说在上海,要想生存,哪个行业不累,不都靠加班多挣点辛苦钱嘛!他说是啊,不过最近你们加班打车的人不多了,看来也是受市场环境不景气的影响吧。客人是我们的衣食父母,整个社会经济是一个大系统,一荣俱用,一损俱损。我说你这思想境界可以啊。

我问他开白班还是晚班,他说是一个人开白、晚班,每天开到凌晨两点左右,坚持不住了的话,找个偏僻路边睡上四五个小时。最近连着好几天都只跑了四百多元左右的毛收入,每天还要交三百元的“份子钱”,这个日子确实不好过。但是不好过也得过,为了家庭,为了生存,只能自己多辛苦点,坚持下去,希望有好起来的那一天……

我挺佩服他的坚忍,有时候普罗大众的生存智慧,也具有质朴的积极意义。有这样一句古语:百样生意百样难,只有讨食过清闲。这世上的人,大都过着“为五斗米折腰”的日子。为生存,为发展,为家庭,为公司……,梦想还在,动力就在。

I returned to Shanghai for a business trip and took a taxi home from Hongqiao Railway Station in the evening.

The taxi driver was a swarthy and scruffy middle-aged man in his forties. It seemed that he was an old smoker, because when I opened the car door and a strong smell of smoke hit me. As the taxi drove out of the basement, a cold wind came in, so I let him to close the window. He asked me if I cared about the smoke smell. I said I’d rather be warm, then put on headphones to listen to music.

Halfway through the trip, I saw him wave to me, so I took off my headphones. He said let’s talk for a while, I’ve been driving for a day, and felt a little tired and bored. Certainly, I said.

He asked me what job I do. I said I work in a design institute. He asked where the institute was, and I told him it was in Pudong New district. He asked where exactly. In Expo Park, I told him. Then he said he knew, the institute was moved from Pudong South Road to the place? I was surprised. I said you’re impressive, you know all this. He said that when we drive a taxi, we’ll accumulate experience in the process, what time period, and where it is possible to pick up. Therefore, I know that your design institute often works overtime until after 10 o’clock in the evening, and many people will take a taxi home. Your profession is also tiring, and you often work overtime. I said that in Shanghai, to survive, which industry is not tired, don’t rely on overtime to earn more hard money! He said yes, but not many of you have been taking cabs overtime lately, so it seems to have been affected by the sluggish market conditions. Guests are our food and clothing parents, the whole social economy is a big system, a glory, a loss. I said that’s a high enough state of mind for you!

I asked him whether he runs the day shift or the night shift, and he said that he runs the day and night shifts alone, he drives until about 2:00 a.m. every day, and that if he can’t hold out any longer, he’ll find a remote roadside to sleep for four or five hours. Recently, for several days in a row have only earn about 400 yuan of gross income, and still have to pay 300 yuan of “share money” every day, this day is really not easy. But not good have to live, for the sake of the family, in order to survive, can only own more hard work, hang on, hope there is a good day ……

I admired his stoicism, and sometimes the survival wisdom of the general public has a pristine positivity to it. There is such a proverb: A hundred kinds of business are difficult, only begging for food and leisure. Most of the people in this world live a life of "bending their waists for five buckets of rice". For survival, for development, for family, for the company ……, the dream is there, the power is there.

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深圳返沪

Thu ,September 26, 2024


⇪宝安机场候机厅 /图·wezon©

处理完深圳的事务,准备下午返沪。选了一个合适的时间和机型的航班,怎奈还是遇到了延误,人算不如天算。

闲来无事,聊聊宝安机场T3航站楼。建筑的造型确实够现代,有特色。曲面造型,扁六边形元素被用到了极致,室内外看起来都足够科技梦幻。室内近察如同满天繁星,光影迷离。室外远观似天外巨龙,气势非凡。

从设计角度来说,这是个好设计,从使用角度而言却不尽然。2013年12月机场刚建成投运不到20天,遇到一场大暴雨,一体化的弧形屋面外墙漏水严重,候机厅变成雨水从天而降的“水帘洞”,损失惨重。它的屋面和外墙连成圆弧形一体,而这些个圆弧曲面又是由无数个扁六边形平面连接而成,缝口的密封与防水靠的都是结构胶,对施工精度要求极高。而且但凡是胶就有个自然老化的问题,最多十几二十年后,就必须清理后重新打胶,平时维护保养成本不低。所以再好的设计,也得有成熟的技术措施来保障。

下午14:35终于开始登机。吉祥航空是国内交付第一架波音787-9梦想型客机的航司,它可载乘客近290名,座椅间距也够宽敞。傍晚17:05分降落在虹桥机场,结束了三天的旅程。有个小插曲,一架东航的客机趴窝了,阻挡了我们航班通往登机桥的路径,等候了有15分钟,机长广播里通知适时适度地点出了东航的问题。懂的都懂。

After dealing with the project affairs in Shenzhen, I was ready to return to Shanghai in the afternoon. I chose a suitable time and type of flight, but there was still a delay.

I have nothing to do, so let’s talk about the T3 terminal of Bao’an Airport. The shape of the building is really modern enough to be distinctive. Curved shapes, flat hexagonal elements are used to the extreme, and the interior and exterior look techno-fantastic enough. Indoor close inspection as the sky full of stars, the light and shadow confused. Outdoor far like the sky outside the dragon, extraordinary momentum.

It’s a good design from a design perspective, not so much from a usage perspective. In December 2013, less than 20 days after the airport was completed and put into operation, it encountered a heavy rainstorm, the integrated curved roof and exterior wall leaked seriously, and the waiting hall became a "water curtain hole" where rain fell from the sky, caused heavy losses. Its roof and exterior wall are connected into an arc-shaped whole, and these arc curved surfaces are connected by countless flat hexagonal planes, and the sealing and waterproofing of the seams rely on structural adhesive, which requires extremely high construction accuracy. Moreover, there is a natural aging problem in all glue, at most ten or twenty years later, it must be cleaned up and re-glued, and the usual maintenance cost is not low. Therefore, no matter how good the design is, it must be guaranteed by mature technical measures.

Boarding finally began at 14:35 p.m. Juneyao Airlines is the first domestic airline to deliver the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner, which can carry nearly 290 passengers and has a spacious seat pitch. At 17:05 in the evening, we landed at Hongqiao Airport, ending my three-day journey. There was a small episode, a China Eastern Airlines passenger plane lay down, blocking the path of our flight to the boarding bridge, waited for 15 minutes, and the captain’s announcement on the radio pointed out the problem of China Eastern Airlines in a timely and appropriate manner. If you know, you know.

Baoan airport1
⇪宝安机场鸟瞰 /图·来自网络

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我和南京的点滴往事

Tue, September 24, 2024

今天又来南京办公,想起我和南京的一些往事。看来年纪大了,爱向后看,爱回忆往事了。

南京是我故乡的省会,我高中毕业以前去过我们县城以外,唯一的一个城市就是南京。印象中那时候还是在上高二,暑假跟一个要好的同学到南京玩了两天。说是两天,其实来回交通就要耗时一天。那时候咱们中国的道路交通状况还很一般,即便是位于华东沿海地区的江苏也不例外。从故乡县城乘车去南京是没有高速公路的,那时候的省道,砂石公路,甚至还比不上如今的乡村公路。车子开到六合县,通往南京的一段快速路叫做宁六公路,是省级示范道路,双向四车道。车子开在这种路面上一点都不颠簸,感觉很是惊喜。第一次来南京,玩了哪些地方,不记得了,只记得配了一副眼镜,某个街角吃了很多的西瓜,吃到胃胀。住宿的地方是五六个人一间的大通铺,身上带了没有几个钱,居然也有点担心不安全。

大学没在南京上,但是因为学的建筑学专业,学校组织的游学写生期间,第一站便是到南京采风写生。去了哪些地方不是太记得清了,紫金山,新街口,莫愁湖,南京长江大桥,雨花台……,大概这些吧。那时候的南京也远没有如今这般繁华,街区也是破旧的很。有个最深的印象,南京的面条好吃,红汤面,油花子多,好吃够味。

工作以后,来南京的机会就更多了。那时候痴迷电脑,去的最多的地方是珠江路,那是全省有名的电脑一条街。配组装电脑,买电脑耗材,看新潮的电子产品,买各式电脑杂志。后来我还买过当时很新奇的电子产品——数码相机。奥林巴斯的,96万像素,1200*800分辨率,存储卡是8M,只能储存十几张照片。相机售价6300元,那时候的这笔钱的购买力可不小哦!

再后来,去上海工作了,去了更大的城市。从此南京在我心目中的印象渐渐淡了下来,去的机会也不多了,偶尔出差,或者返乡路过而已。

没想到,今年起公司安排我不时地来南京工作。这样一来,又有机会可以经常来南京了。在南京工作期间,当天晚上不回上海的话,我就可以一个人,悠闲地把所住酒店周边的大街小巷走上几圈,体会南京的风土人情和都市文化,探寻隐藏在巷子里的美食,尤其是具有特色的南京面食。

如今,工作、学习、生活、生意等等带来的人口流动性和生活变数真大。人们被时代大潮推动着,兜兜转转,身不由己,变成另一种意义上的“居无定所”。

I came to Nanjing to work today, and remembered some of my past events with Nanjing. It seems that I am older, like to look backwards and reminisce about the past.

Nanjing is the provincial capital of my hometown. Before I graduated from high school, I went outside of our county, the only city was Nanjing. I remember that I was still in my second year of high school at that time, and I went to Nanjing for two days with a good classmate during the summer vacation. Although that was two days, but in fact, it took one day on the road.

I didn’t go to college in Nanjing,but because of the architecture major, the school organized a study tour during the sketching, the first station is to Nanjing sketching. What place to go was not too remember clear, Zijin Muntain, Xinjiekou, Mochou Lake, Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, Yuhuatai ……, probably these it. At that time, Nanjing was far from being as prosperous as it is today, and the neighborhoods were very dilapidated. I have a deepest impression, Nanjing’s noodles were delicious, red soup noodles, with more oil, delicious enough flavor.

After working, I had more chances to come to Nanjing. Obsessed with computers at that time, I went to the most place was Zhujiang Road, the province’s famous computer street. In there, you could assemble computers, bought computer consumables, looked at trendy electronic products, and bought all kinds of computer magazines. Later I also bought a very fashion electronic product at that time – digital camera. Olympus, 960,000 pixels, 1200 * 800 resolution, memory card was 8M, which could only store a dozen photos. The camera sold for 6300 yuan, the purchasing power of this money at that time can not be small!

Then later, I went to Shanghai to work, went to a bigger city. From then on, Nanjing in my mind’s impression gradually faded down, the opportunity to go to there was not much, and occasionally business trips, or return to my hometowns pass by only.

Unexpectedly, the company arranged for me to Nanjing to work from time to time since this year. This gives me the opportunity to come to Nanjing more often. During work in Nanjing, if I didn’t go back to Shanghai that night, I could leisurely walk around the streets and alleys around the hotel I stayed, experienced the local customs and urban culture of Nanjing, and explored the food hidden in the alleys, especially the characteristic Nanjing noodle dishes.

Nowadays, work, study, life, business and so on bring lots of mobility and life variables. People are driven by the tide of the times, moving around and around, becoming “homeless” in another sense of the word.


⇪图·南京禄口机场转角夜景

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车当船开

Fri, September 20, 2024

最强台风“贝碧嘉”刚离开没几天,“普拉桑”又来了,上海一周内接连遭遇两个台风正面登陆,真是活久见。这次“普拉桑”虽然风力没有“贝碧嘉”大,但是携带了大量的雨水,申城的城市排水系统面临严峻的考验。

暴雨哗啦啦地下了一夜,早晨上班时也没见减弱。雨再大,也得上班。7:45开车出门,小区内就堵上了,从家门口出小区西门耗时35分钟,我们小区得有多大啊!市政道路上堵的几乎是水泄不通。车子只能龟速爬行,两侧马路牙边都是白花花的积水。

看到这种路况,估计高架更是堵的不行。那还是选择走地面道路稳妥一点,但就是这个想法后面让我后悔不迭了。车行到华泾路左转弯进入景洪路,眼前的一幕让我彻底傻眼了。整个道路全部被淹没在看起来不知道有多深的雨水中,有好几辆车子抛锚在水中央,双跳灯闪动着车主的绝望和无奈。而且除了小轿车,还有面包车、SUV、别克公务舱,这些车的底盘都不低啊。经过5秒钟的思考,我别无选择地赌了一把,开车慢慢进入这片“未来水世界”。慢踩油门,慢慢匀速行驶,在趴窝抛锚的车辆间寻找可以通过的空档,一路小心翼翼向前挪。前面道路的地势慢慢高了起来,渐渐能看到积水下面的路面了,最后终于趟过了这条河。车子这是当船开了,还好我的车身底盘比较高,算是有惊无险吧,尽管想起来也是后怕。

再向前走了段路,就到中环的上中路隧道了。上中路隧道也很堵,好在由于有几道截水沟和排水系统,并没有想象中的道路积水现象。出了上中路隧道,转向耀龙路出口,前面的路面又变成一片水乡泽国了,只有最北边一根车道地势稍高,其他3根车道只能尽可能往左边靠着行驶。

10:05分,总算安全到达公司,迟到已经不算个事了。这一路19km的上班路,开车居然走了2小时20分钟,真是不易。虽然时间是多花了点,还好车子没抛锚,鞋子没湿透,没有淋成落汤鸡,也还算是幸运吧。

总结一下,以后遇到暴雨极端天气,哪怕再堵,也还是要走主干道和高架。因为这些是城市主要道路,设计时对于标高和道路排水系统考虑比较周到。堵是必然的,但是安全性还是有保障,基本上不会穿越涉水深的路面。也有人说可以乘公交、地铁上班,不过这么大的雨,基本上道路都是积水,即便打伞或者穿雨衣,鞋子和裤子必然也是湿透了,这一天的工作状态不好受啊。

The strongest typhoon “Bebinca” just left a few days, “Prasang” came again. Two typhoons landed in Shanghai within a week, It’s really live a long time to see.

The storm continued all night and didn’t abate when I went to work this morning. I had to go to work although the storm. I drove out at 7:45, the community was blocked up. It took 35 minutes from my home to the west gate of the community, how big our community has to be! Roads were almost impassable. The car could only crawl at a turtle speed, and the curbs on both sides of the road were covered with water.

Seen this road condition, I guessed the elevated would even more congested. It seemed that take the ground road was a better choice, but I regret it later. The front scene dumbfounded me completely when I drove to Huajing Road and turned left onto Jinghong Road. The whole road was submerged in rainwater which I didn’t know how deep, Several vehicles were broken down in the water, their double jump lights flashing the despair and hopelessness of their owners. And in additions to cars, there were vans, SUVs, Buick business class, these vehicles chassis were not low. After 5 seconds of thinking, I had no choice but to take a gamble and drove slowly into the “future water world”. Stepped on the accelerator slowly, drove at a constant speed, looked for a passble space between the stalled vehicles, and moved carefully all the way forward. The road slowly rose that I could see the road under the water, and finally waded through the river. My vehicle was driven as a boat, fortunately my chassis is relatively high, it’s kind of a scare, although it’s scary to think about it later.

By another drove forward, there was Shangzhong Road Tunnel of middle ring. It was also very congested, but fortunately, thanks to several interceptor drains and drainage systems, there was no imaginable accumulation of water on the tunnel. After I drove out of the tunnel, and turn to the exit of Yaolong Road, the front road had turned into watery countryside again, with only the northernmost lane having a slightly higher terrain, while the other three lanes could only be driven to the left as far as possible.

I arrived safely at the office at 10:05, and being late was no longer an issue. It was not easy to drive 2 hours and 20 minutes on this 19km commute. Although it took a little more time, I was luckly that the car didn’t break down, my shoes didn’t get wet, and I didn’t get drenched.

As a summarize, when encountering extreme weather storms, even if the road congestion, we still have to take the main roads and elevated. Because these are major urban roads, the design is more thoughtful about elevations and road drainage. Congest is a given, but safety is still assured, and you won’t be crossing roads with deep wading. Perhaps some people say you can take public transportation to work, but with such heavy rain, roads are waterlogged, even if you wear an umbrella or a raincoat, your shoes and pants are bound to be soaked through, it’s not easy to spend a day working.

drove
图·行驶在未来水世界

图来自网络·上海地铁11号线上海游泳馆站


图来自网络·浦东泥城镇

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台风过后,一片狼籍

Mon, September 16, 2024

台风“贝碧嘉”上午7:30登陆上海浦东临港新城,近中心最大风力14级。据报道这是1949年以来,正面登陆上海市的最强台风。台风给上海带来一场狂风暴雨和极强的破坏性,各方面遭受损失不小,估计随后的新闻会有详细报道。

下午三点多钟,台风过去,风停雨住,我出门去了解小区范围内受损情况。底层商铺的门口植物陈设全部被吹倒砸烂,路边有几棵树被连根拔起或者吹断了,道路上很多的残枝败叶。有两辆车被坠落的断枝砸到,看起来已经开出去维修了,车位空了出来。垃圾房的顶棚被掀掉,路灯控制箱被吹倒。邻居们在微信群里抱怨,因为外墙门窗渗漏,家里水漫金山。

我的车旁边有一根被风吹断的大枯枝,不知道有没有砸到它,看起来还好。副驾驶侧外玻璃与B柱的缝隙里有片树叶,估计是风把玻璃吹变形了的时候卡进去的。楼顶露台栽种的各式花花草草,花盆几乎尽数被吹落摔坏。楼上邻居开公司的,说他们厂子4000多平米的厂房屋顶被风掀掉了,损失不小。

在大自然的威力面前,人类渺小到微不足道。说“人定胜天”的人,要不只是给自己个心理安慰,要不就是痴人说梦。

Typhoon Bebinca landed in Lingang New City in Pudong, Shanghai at 7:30 a.m., with the maximum wind of 14 force near the center. It was reported to be the strongest typhoon to make landfall in Shanghai since 1949.

At 3:00 p.m., the typhoon passed, the wind and rain stopped. I went out to check on the damage within the community. The plants at the entrance of the shops on the ground floor were all blown down and smashed, and a few trees on the side of the road were uprooted or blown off, there were many stumps and leaves everywhere. Two cars were hit by falling broken branches that appeared to have been driven out for repair, and the parking space was empty. The roof of the garbage room was torn off, and the street lamp control box was blown down. Neighbors complained in the WeChat group that because of the leakage of doors and windows on the external wall, the water flooded their home.

There was a big windblown branch next to my car, I don’t know if it hit it. It looks ok. There is a leaf in the gap between the outer glass and the B-pillar on the co-pilot side, it’s estimated that the wind is stuck when the glass is deformed. All kinds of flowers and plants planted on the roof of the terrace, the flowerpots are almost blown down and broken. Upstairs neighbor said that more than 4000 square meters of his factory’s roof were lifted by the wind, the loss is not small.

In the face of the power of nature, human beings are small to insignificant. People who say "man can conquer nature", or not just to give themselves a psychological comfort, or is a crazy dream.

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印尼行,第四天

早晨终于可以睡到自然醒。今天要告别Makassar,回到Jakarda。因为是中午的航班,因而可以悠闲地在酒店享用早餐。早餐也有牛肉汤,我终于搞明白了两种牛肉汤的区别。黄色牛肉汤属于原味的牛肉块(粒),牛肉比较有嚼劲,汤也稍微清淡一些。黑色牛肉汤,牛肉块(粒)经过熏制后再煮熟,牛肉没什么嚼劲,入口一呡即化,汤的配料颜色和口味更浓。酒店的早餐没想象中的好,也不便宜,不过环境好,透过大面积的玻璃窗,可以看到城市风景。远处一座荷兰特色建筑,屋顶的四叶大风车居然真的在慢慢旋转。其实对于外来的旅行者来说,有机会的话去探寻隐藏在大街小巷里富有特色的地方美食,不失为更好的选择。

这次在国外没有使用Uber打车,而是使用了微信小程序里的Grab叫车,绑定信用卡后,车资换算成人民币后可以直接手机上扣费,确实方便。昨天和今天叫网约车都叫到了女司机的车,裹着严实的头巾,熟练地开着车穿梭在大街小巷。昨天那个女司机甚至还会几句简单的中文对话,让人忍俊不禁。看起来印尼的穆斯林女性地位还是比较开放宽容的,女性可以从事跟男性几乎相同的工作。中午12:00的航班,到达机场通过安检后时间尚早。机场的店铺逛一逛,实在没什么值得买的特色商品。想要买个Makassar的冰箱贴,以纪念到此一游,却也没买到合适好看的,比较遗憾。

下午13:15抵达雅加达,与望加锡有一小时的时差。这点时差要在咱们大中国就忽略设置了,因为中国国土东西跨度比印尼还要大,跨越5个时区,仍然以北京时间为准。乘车前往市区,终于见到印尼首都真正的模样,道路平整整洁,也有立交和随处可见的高楼大厦。不过除了主干道宽敞顺直外,其他道路仍旧是曲折迂回,有一种在建筑群之间求生存的感觉,看来还是土地丝有化影响的结果。今天周日,路况尚好,并未见到印尼首都传说中的拥堵。酒店办理入住,休息片刻后,楼下超市选购了一些印尼特色商品作为伴手礼。

晚上跟当地中国人朋友吃了日料,门面不大,门口只能停两三辆车。但是进到饭店内部,大有乾坤,考究的日式装修高档精致,各式包厢和卡座布置其间。各色菜品新鲜够味,据说首席大厨是真正的日本人。宾主落座,品尝美食,把酒言欢。都说印尼禁酒,那是在穆斯林族内部而已,非清真饭店并没有这个禁忌。主人好客,客人尽兴,异国他乡难得相聚,畅叙项目合作、业务模式与风土人情。酒足饭饱,分手道别,后会有期。

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⇪图·雅加达·苏加诺机场上空鸟瞰

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⇪图·雅加达·市中心的城市风貌

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⇪图·雅加达·现代文明与传统文化交织的城市街景


⇪图·雅加达·日料店——不同文化的包容

  • 美食地图推荐:Okuzono Japanese Dining

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