印尼行,第一天

平生第一次来印尼,对这个国家亦不甚了解。9月4日晚乘东航MU5069,17:15上海浦东起飞,当地时间22:15降落印尼雅加达苏加诺机场,历时近6h。一路打盹,看书,写博客,倒也没觉得时间漫长,因为跟从上海飞乌鲁木齐耗时差不多。时差比中国早一小时,基本无感。当晚机场附近的Marriott Fairfield万枫酒店入住,条件还不错,前台服务生的笑容够真诚迷人,房间有迎宾果盘点心,床垫太软,枕头够好。只是窗户不是双层中空,稍微有点吵。

9月5日晨起,餐厅用餐,品种不是太多,但也还不错,该有的都有。品尝了叫不出名称的馅饼,涂抹酱的味道不错,国内没有品尝过的口味。水果照例是要品尝的,西瓜,芒果,青瓜,不是太甜的那种,但是足够新鲜水灵。咖啡也是要喝的,印尼位于热带地区,咖啡品质好还便宜。吃完早餐在酒店外转了几圈,感受一下户外的自然气息。

上午去雅加达的Golf Island PIK办事,这儿其实就是一个中国城,华人与中资企业都集中在这里。路边可以吃到大饼油条中式早餐,而且随处可见中文招牌,甚至还有烧烤店。这边的联排别墅300万一套,3层220m2左右,租金一年10万元人民币,不算贵。两个住家保姆,包吃住,每人月工资2000元人民币。

印尼号称千岛之国,其实全国范围据统计有17805个大小岛屿。印尼多地震,无台风,因为印尼位于赤道上,所以没有地球风的影响,这个说法我还是第一次听说。气候闷热,常年温度二三十度,没有四季,只有旱季雨季。雅加达周边环海,不过没有看到蓝天白云大海的景色,因为天空雾霾笼罩,工业污染和汽车污染造就。这边的汽车没有报废一说,所以汽车尾气的污染可以想象。印尼车子是右舵靠左行驶,跟日本英国一致。据说印尼之前是荷兰的殖民地,虽然现在有印尼语,但是跟荷兰一个语系,字母采用了英文26个字母,都能认得,只不过不懂什么意思。欧洲海洋文明真是厉害,一个个小小的国家,就能把诺大一个南半球土地给殖民瓜分了。听说其实是日本把印尼从荷兰手中解放出来的,所以日本才是印尼的伪宗主国。因此在印尼更多的日本产品,电梯扶梯是日立、富士居多,街道上车子也以日系为主。日系的某个熟悉的车型系列,比如凯美瑞、海格斯等,原来的底盘,换了个外壳变成了印尼的新系列车型,这钱挣的也是省事。

这几天因为梵蒂冈的教宗方济各到访,部分道路封闭,没能去市区里面走一圈。这老爷子也真是敬业,这么大岁数也不辞劳苦,跑到一个伊斯兰教民族占比超过80%的国家来布道宣传。古往今来有多少传教士不远万里全球奔波传教,把教义当作伟大的事业和神圣无上的工作来看待,在传播教义的同时还传播了科学文化,但就这一点来说,传教者的精神确实值得钦佩和赞叹。

中午回到雅加达机场,吃了个快餐,类似于国内米线的类型,加了点调料酱,味道辛辣起来。人民50元左右一份,价格跟国内差不多。下午飞往下一个城市望加锡(Makassar),历时近3个小时抵达时天色已晚。望加锡的机场比较老旧,出站口好似农贸市场,各色人等闹哄哄的。机场内打车特贵,比机场外要多出人民币近200块,估计是有“机场建设费”吧。

临近市区,城市道路两侧的建筑就是个大农村。也有富人区,高墙大院,富丽堂皇,看来到哪里都避免不了贫富两极分化。晚上入住Hyatt Place Hotel,2024年2月17日刚开业,条件挺好,房费折合人民币500元左右,不含早餐。据说这个酒店和公寓的建筑综合体,是在原来日本大使馆的地址上新建的,这块地皮只卖了人民币500万元,地价真是便宜!

晚餐去离酒店不远,靠近海边的渔人酒家(Rumah Makan Nelayan R.M Nelayan)吃海鲜,好吃不贵,生意超好,几近满员。来用餐的也有东亚和欧洲面孔,但以穆斯林的妇女居多,都是用各色头巾把头发裹得严严实实的。印尼的男人可以娶4个老婆,不过要一视同仁对待。其中有2桌一字排开坐了四五个年龄相仿,穿着打扮档次也相似的中年妇女,不知道是不是一家人。我们4人点了几个菜:东星斑一条做汤,干煎马面鱼,火烤大虾,香蕉叶裹糯米蒸,辣椒炒臭豆,爆炒空心菜,咸鱼酥,外加2瓶啤酒,一盆米饭。席间有人开玩笑说,这儿的渔民是用石斑鱼制作咸鱼酥。最后结账折合人民币500元左右,菜还没吃完。这儿普通啤酒却是不便宜,25元一瓶,说是税收高。这儿的海鲜价格比起国内来真的是家常消费的水平。晚餐后打车回到酒店,这里可以使用微信小程序grab打车,用账户绑定的人民币支付,确实方便,价格跟国内差不多。

这一天下来感觉印尼的地区发展差别大,城市化程度不高,相对国内来说消费水平偏低,物价也不高。1元人民币可兑换2000印尼盾,看着票面面值,感觉都是有钱人。不过机场的书籍很贵,薄薄的一本价值人民币两百块左右,看来只有富人才读得起书。这边的电视好多都是美国的频道,Google系列App一如既往地好用,Instgram挺好玩,国内也有博主在这儿发视频博客,媒体和数字经济产业基本上还是被外国主导和控制。哪个国家的人民都有自己的生活方式和生活乐趣,市场经济像一只无形的指挥棒,指引着人们从事形形色色的工作,挣着不一样的收入,过着各自的日子,贫穷或者富有,平凡或者伟大,轻松或者艰辛。

  • 美食地图:渔人酒家(Rumah Makan Nelayan R.M Nelayan)

纪念被拆除的那些房子

20岁前居住的房子,10年前被拆除了。30岁前居住的房子,昨天被连夜拆除了。从此,故乡的痕迹被抹去,没有了物理形态,只留下偶尔能翻起的相片和点滴回忆。

20岁前的房子,是乡下老宅,我在那里出生,学习,生活,长大,直到高中毕业外出求学离开。那是父辈的房子,是我成年前的全部,也是回忆过往最多想起的地方。30岁前的房子,在县城,是大学毕业后参加工作,单位分配的宿舍。我在那里工作,生活,娶妻,生子,是我成家立业的场所和见证。

20岁前的房子被拆了,没有变成良田万顷,而是种上了花草树木,盖起了旅游度假区。看起来好像挺热闹,但是人口资源总量放在那儿,这种牵强附会的人造景点,我不知道实际能带来多少经济效益。现在每年春节回乡,总还想着去看一看,去找寻以前的踪迹,虽然故乡只剩下一个大致的方位。30岁前的房子被拆了,即将在上面建设现代化的职业学校。如今教育资源如此丰富甚至过剩,重要的是整合优化,做优做强。每年一千多万大学生毕业,很多人找不到工作,却还要大拆大建,投资建设这么多学校的必要性和紧迫性是什么。

20岁前的房子被拆掉时,连同宅基地,补偿了三万多元。30岁前的房子被拆时,宿舍连同自建房补偿了六万多元。都是政府定的价,他们说多少钱就是多少钱,按房屋面积,每平米补偿两三百元。我不知道这个标准是怎么出炉的,是怎么审批通过的。他们说你们要是不答应,那就强拆!都说赶上拆迁是好事,能得到优渥的补偿款,我没有赶上这波福利。我们只是草民,得服从大局,服从安排,觉悟要高。

拆迁补偿是一回事,没有这些,靠自身的努力我们也能体面生存,衣食无忧。我更在意的是拆迁抹去了我的故乡物质载体,这是是另一回事。从此故乡难寻,没有了老房子就没有了根,没有了精神寄托,心灵没有了归宿,故乡从此变成记忆……

写于2024年9月4日晚,上海飞往印尼的航班上

9月1日,开学日

 

真好,今年的开学日是周日,孩子们还可以休息一天,把没完成的暑假作业赶紧补上。不过有的学校却提前报到了,比如我们家旁边的这个小学。傍晚出去遛狗,看到有学生家长带孩子来学校熟悉环境。学校的后门附近,运送新教材的卡车师傅在忙着卸货。明天这些散发着油墨书香的新书,就会发到孩子们的手上。新的学期开始了。

开学了,孩子们有点沮丧,开心的暑假这么快就结束了。家长们却是高兴得很,“百鸟归林”“百兽归山”,终于不用成日地为娃们操心了。开学了,早晚上下学,背着大书包的孩子们和接送的家长充盈着小区周边的环境,一切又恢复了往日的生机和活力。开学了,明天起的上班路就不那么通畅了,早上上班路上得多出半小时的时间。

现在的孩子们的学习条件比我们当初好多了,不过他们所需要学习的知识和考学的压力,都比我们当初大得多。我们当初的小学和初中,真的没有什么学习压力,感觉就是稀里糊涂,无忧无虑地长大了。

上学的时候盼望早点长大,去未知的世界里去闯一闯。长大以后面对社会的纷繁复杂与生存压力,又怀念当初的青葱岁月和单纯无忧的学习生活。这种矛盾的心理历程,你是不是也有过?

The first day of school is a Sunday, so the kids can still catch up on unfinished summer homework. But some schools are open normally, such as the primary school next to my home. Out walking my dog in the evening, I saw some parents bringing their children to the school to familiarize themselves with the environment. Near the back door of the school, truckers delivering new textbooks were busy unloading. Tomorrow, these new books, scented with ink, will be distributed to the children. A new semester has begun.

When school started, the children were a little depressed, and the happy summer vacation ended so soon. The parents are very happy, “a hundred birds return to the forest” and “a hundred beasts return to the mountain”, so they don’t have to worry about the babies all day long. The children with large bags and the parents who rode or drove filled the surrounding environment of the community, and everything returned to its former vigor and vitality. The commute to work from tomorrow will not be so smooth, and it will take an extra half an hour to get to work in the morning.

Now children’s learning conditions are much better than we were, but the knowledge they need to learn and the pressure to take exams are much greater than we were. When we were in primary school and junior high school, we really didn’t have any study pressure, and we felt like we were just confused and grew up carefree.

When people in school, they hope to grow up early and go into the unknown world to break through. While growing up, we faced the complexity of society and the pressure of survival, and we missed our childhoods and the simple and worry-free study life. Have you ever had this kind of contradictory psychological experience?

题图·colorhub.me

,

打“飞的”,长沙往返

0D639E4C-9C17-4B59-8DEE-9C0F3011A9FF_1_102_o

昨天接到通知,今天下午召开一个协调会,故而一早又飞往长沙。

长沙的中午,阳光曝晒,高温持续,闷热难当。开会地点在郊区的一个小镇,街上的餐饮店和商铺都舍不得开空调,只留电扇呼呼狂吹。午饭后不知何处去,背着包晒着大太阳,在狭窄破旧的街区寻找安身之处,咖啡店或茶吧遍却寻不着。习惯于夏天待在有空调的车内或房间内的人,面对这个场景,真是一种煎熬。好在最后终于找到一家电信营业厅,蹭了会儿空调,店员真是暖心,还给了我一杯温水。我这是好日子过习惯了,人也变得养尊处优,还能适应原始而自然的生活方式吗。

晚上返沪时,在长沙黄花机场遇到一群师太。一行5人,年龄不一。着灰色长袍,灰色休闲网格鞋,布袋单肩包,看起来这是统一的“工装”。不过她们的拉杆箱并不一样,甚至有一个看起来还是高档品牌。她们都没有戴僧帽,只有一个年轻点、身材样貌也好看一些的,戴了一个灰色宽边太阳帽,这就显得有些时尚了。她们候机休息时,有打坐盘佛珠,有的在对话聊天,有的看手机。特别想知道,她们的手机里用哪些App,也想问问她们是否真的做到了清心净意,对红尘了无挂念。出家了就真的与世无争了吗,轻松清净的管理者和脏活粗活的劳作者,都是自愿为之,能者多劳吗?

这世界到处都是一座座围城,城外的人想进去,城里的人想出来。

I flew to Changsha again in the morning, for a coordination meeting this afternoon.

At noon in Changsha, the sun is exposed and the heat continues to be stifling.The meeting would take place in a small town on the outskirts of the city, where the restaurants and shops on the street were reluctant to turn on the A/C, leaving only electric fans blowing furiously. I didn’t know where to go after lunch, I carried my bag in the sun and searched for a place to stay in the narrow and shabby neighborhoods where I couldn’t find a coffee shop or a tea bar. For those who are used to staying in air-conditioned cars or rooms in the summer, it’s a real ordeal to face this scenario. Luckily, I finally found a telecom office for the free A/C, and the clerk was really warm and gave me a glass of warm water. I’m so used to the good life and have become pampered, can I still adapt to the primitive and natural way of life.

On the way back to Shanghai in the evening, I met a group of Buddhist nuns at Huanghua Airport. With 5 people of all ages,Wearing gray robes, gray casual mesh shoes, cloth shoulder bags, it seems that this is a unified “work clothes”. But their luggage wasn’t the same, and one even looked to be a premium band. None of them wore monk’s hats, and only one of them, who was a little younger and had a better-looking figure, wore a wide-brimmed gray sun hat, which was somewhat more fashionable. As they waited for their flights, some were meditating and discarding Buddha beads, some were conversing and chatting, and some were looking through their phones. I would like to know which apps they use usually, and whether they have really achieved purity of mind and have no attachment to the mundane life. Does being a monk mean that one is really free from the world, and that the managers of the easy and pure work, and the laborers of the dirty and rough work are doing it voluntarily, and that those who are able to do it do it more often?

The world is full of a "walled city". Some people want to get into who are outside, and the others want to get out who are inside.

,

离京返沪

睡得晚,起的也比平时晚,算是睡足了7小时,疲劳有所缓解。北京的宾馆价格忒高,就我入住的这家吧,150的标准,却要花费600一间。就这样,还不提供早餐,就是这么拽!看来现在酒店行业也算是暴利行业。

出门吃早餐,好不容易找到一家早餐店,进到店里一看,感觉就是脏乱差。别无选择,凑合着吃点吧。要了碗豆腐脑,服务员直接从旁边桶里舀了半勺胡辣汤作为调料,简单直接粗暴,惊到了我!

上午办事倒是顺利得很,没费周折。中午在北京南站顺便还吃了顿庆丰包子,没觉得有什么特别的美味。这种大众食品,没有什么技术含量,也不会给你多大的惊喜。中午火车返沪,傍晚到家,结束奔波之旅。

北京作为首都,有那么多天下闻名的历史建筑与街区,现代建筑高楼大厦,但是城市规划和城市管理的水平确实有待提升,城市面貌和城市公共基础设施,特别是精细化、人性化管理还有很大的提升空间。希望京城发展得越来越好,越来越美,能完全匹配世界一流城市的称号。

Slept late and woke up later than usual, I got a full 7 hours of sleep, and my fatigue has eased somewhat. The hotel price in Beijing is too expensive, for example, the inn I booked was a standard ¥150, but it costs ¥600 one night. And no breakfast serves, so arrogant! It seems that the hotel industry is now a profiteering industry.

It’s not easy to find a breakfast shop nearby, when I found it and went in, I felt that it was so dirty and messy. I have no choice but to make do with some food. Asked for a bowl of tofu pudding, the waiter directly from the side bucket scooped half a spoonful of Hu maeuntang as seasoning, simple, direct and rude, surprised me!

The affairs went smoothly this morning without any trouble. At noon, I also ated Qingfeng steamed burns at Beijing South Railway Station. I didn’t find anything particularly delicious. This kind of popular food doesn’t have much technology and won’t surprise you much. I took the train back to Shanghai at noon and got home in the evening to end the trip.

As the Capital of China, Beijing have lots of famous historic buildings and districts, lots of morden skyscrapers, however the level of urban planning and urban managerment does need to be improved. Urban appearance and urban public infrastructure, especially fine, humanized managerment, there is still a lot of space for improvement. I Hope that the Capital will develop better and better, become more beautiful, and can fully match the title of a world-class city.

,

上海·合肥·北京,又是一日三地

上午上海虹桥出发,乘高铁中午抵达合肥,去项目现场处理事务。傍晚合肥南站吃了“老乡鸡”再出发去北京,深夜抵达北京南站,再到酒店已然接近子夜时分。

现代化高速交通工具,为人类在地理空间的移动带来了便捷,也给人们带来了更加疲惫不堪的快节奏。“更快,更高,更强”,带来了日新月异的发展和变化,可是你依然是那个你,日啖三餐,夜卧一塌。即便有锦衣玉食,高科技的电子产品相伴,但被事务推动着奔波劳碌,你很难活出真正的幸福感。

经济持续下行,各行各业都受到较大的影响,“更累,更窘,更卷”会是新常态吗?一方面,在岗的人感觉比以前更忙碌,但是收入待遇却下降了;另一方面不在岗的更多人找不到工作,就业率低,机会少。2024年高校应届毕业生1179万,好多刚毕业的大学生毕业即失业,这么看来能有点事情做已经不错了。忍耐,坚持,且行且珍惜!

I started from Hongqiao station in the morning, arrived in Hefei at noon by high-speed rail and go to the project site to deal with some problems. In the evening, I went to Hefei South Railway Station. After had something to eat at "Original Chicken", then set off for Beijing. I arrived at Beijing South Railway Station late at night, and then arrived at the hotel close to midnight.

Modern high-speed transportation not only brings convenience for human movement in geographical space, but also brings people a more exhausted fast pace. "faster, higher, stronger" has brought about rapid development and changes, but you are still who you are, eating three meals a day and lying down at night. Even with rich food and clothing and high-tech electronic products, it is hard to live a real sense of happiness when you are pushed around by things.

As the economy continues to decline, various industries will be greatly affected. Will "more tired, more embarrassed, and more curly" be the new normal? On the one hand, people on duty feel busier than before, but their income has declined; on the other hand, more people who are not on duty are unable to find jobs, have low employment rates and have fewer opportunities. There are 11.79 million fresh college graduates in 2024, and many fresh graduates are out of work, so it seems that it is good to have something to do. Patience, persistence, action and treasure!

,

常德·长沙·上海,日行三地

早上从常德出发,乘高铁去长沙,一小时即达.然后匆匆赶往约定地点,去见我们的合作方。事情很顺利,沟通效率很高。对方承诺对于项目预先设定的条件,一定会积极支持配合。

事毕,已然中午饭点。App上搜了个附近的网红美食打卡地,顺道品尝长沙美食。这家名叫“我家小院”环境不错,服务也好,菜品色香味俱全。尤其是软糯的米饭和下饭小菜,太湖大白刁鱼,招牌麻阳鹅,给我留下了深刻印象。

享受美食后,又休息了片刻,品茗了梅茶。之后去长沙黄花机场,乘飞机返沪,结束三天的旅程。几天奔波,虽然工作强度不大,但是舟车劳顿,确实也挺累人。一边奔波忙碌,一边享受不同的城市风景和地方特色美食。痛并快乐着!

We left Changde early this morning to go to Changsha, and arrived there 75 minutes later by taking a high-speed railway. Then went to the appointed place to meet our partner hurry on. Things went well and communication was efficient. They promise to actively support and cooperate with the pre-set conditions of the project.

It’s time for lunch after we made all things done. we seached the App and chosed a restruant which named "My home courtyard" nearby. It has nice invironment and good service. the food is colorful and delicious. I was especially impressed by the soft rice and the side dishes. and such as "Taihu Lake dabai diao fish" and "Toprated Mayang goose".

After enjoying the food, we took a break and sipped plum tea. Then we went to Changsha Huanghua airpord, and take a flight back to Shanghai, ending the three-days journey. A few days of running around, although the work is not too intense, but the traveling is really quite tiring. While running around, I enjoyed different cityscapes and local specialties. It’s both painful and joyful!

最后,附上两个城市机场上空的鸟瞰照片对比,长沙的城市化进程和发展空间巨大!
huanghua airport
图·长沙黄花机场附近鸟瞰

hongqiao airport
图·上海虹桥机场附近鸟瞰

美食打卡追踪

长沙天心区·我家小院(高云店)

我家小院

, ,

常德之行

2024/08/13~14远赴常德。原计划从上海乘高铁,看时间需七八小时。搜常德有桃花源机场,可以直飞,每天只有一班——廉航春秋飞昆明,中途经停常德,两小时即达。

由桃花源机场,联想到陶渊明和武陵,而武陵即常德市古之旧称也。知湖南有常德,却并未来过。常德是位于湖南北部的地级市,多北呢?北接湖北荆州。作为地级市,属于几线城市呢?四线!2023年,常德市实现地区生产总值4385.7亿元,作为对比,2023年,江苏的县级市昆山完成地区生产总值5140.60亿元,东西部发展差别可见一斑。自然资源与地理区位优势就那么多,全中国的盘子就那么大,不是谁都可以雨露均沾的,所以这再正常不过了。常德总体上还属于欠发达,欠开发,城市化发展程度一般的中西部地区。从城市面貌看,目前尚呈点状开发状态,并未连成一片,所以城市空间比较空旷,要想全面发展,只能等待时日与日积月累了。

常德最有名的工业产品,大概就是“芙蓉王”了,资深烟民们都知道。另外还有武陵酒和德酒,有酱香型和浓香型两种,品质嘛也就那么回事,不过价格却是不低,甚至有一款2888元,敢于挑战茅台了,有胆量!美食嘛,倒也不错,鲜香咸辣,比不上长沙的辣,也蛮对我口味。

之前只听说宜兴市有善卷洞,机场去酒店的路上,经开区这边真正见到了善卷路,甚是有趣。祝愿常德在全国各地全民内卷的时代,能够在湖南争得一席之地,也能快速发展起来。

93CA19FB-ED85-420D-888E-2499D0311839_1_105_c
图·窗外的德山大道一瞥

图·窗外的城市面貌

39927107-F8A1-43FC-BB5B-0770A9B6AF0D_1_102_a
图·大小河街人造景点·喝酒好去处

美食打卡追踪

1.小团圆(大小河街店)

2.朗州烟火(沙滩公园分店)

, ,

壮美晚霞

周日,猫在家里避暑。

今天上海的温度达到了40.4℃,极端高温天气持续,室外骄阳似火。气候变暖带来的变化,让每个人都能实实在在地感受到。

傍晚的天空烧起了晚霞,壮美梦幻,仿佛火星上的场景,感受大自然带来的美景。

 

 

又来海门

半年内,第4次来南通市海门区,够频的。工作上的事情乏善可陈,好在一路风景不错。可以看一望无垠、满眼绿色的崇明岛,可以看万里滔滔江水永不休,可以看崇启大桥于高处跨江而过。为什么要于高处?因为下面要通行海运轮船啊!

一排排风力发电机,挥舞着巨大的叶片,日复一日重复着单调无比的转圈运动,背后却可以生产出绿电能源。就如同我们这些人被项目、被事务驱使着,做着那些看似被动而无聊透顶的工作,却也能默默创造着相应的经济效益和社会价值一样……